Dried Shrimps!

Dried shrimp are made from tiny, unshelled shrimp that are boiled and then sun-dried or baked dry over a gentle heat. After the drying process, they are shrunk to about a thumbnail size.

Dried shrimp is a natural flavor enhancer just like the dried shiitake mushrooms and anchovies, that make everything they touch taste better.

They are used in many Asian cuisines, imparting a unique salty, umami taste that can lift the flavor of all kinds of savory dishes. Some people find their taste a bit strong because they are intensely briny and mildly fishy. Just like the fish sauce, the aroma is stronger than the flavor. They are dense, meaty, and potent so you don't need a lot to flavor a dish. Because of that, dried shrimp is used to season the dish, rather than to substitute for the fresh shellfish.

Unlike some flavoring agents that end up flaccid and insipid after a long cooking process, dried shrimp stay briny and chewy no matter how long they cook. In fact, texture is one of their biggest selling points. It makes them seem more like pork than shellfish.

I always keep a bagful of these dried shrimp in my refrigerator. A few dried shrimp can be used to jazz up a bowlful of wontons in soup, pad Thai, tamales, fried rice or an omelette, and a handful transforms a cabbage into a fragrant, irresistible stir-fry. 

How to Use

A handful is enough for the whole dish serving 4 people. Rinse and soak a handful in cold water for 10-15 min until they are softened. You can chop them up if the cooking time is short, or use them as whole pieces if you can allow them to simmer for long period. The water is to be kept and used too.

Some Chinese cooks soak dried shrimp in Shaoxing wine to mellow the flavor, but water works just fine at making them easier to mince or chop. 

You can grind the dried shrimp in a spice mill without soaking but I don't find it necessary as they soften in water rather quickly.

How to Store

Once opened, vacuum-sealed packages of dried shrimp should be stored in the refrigerator, where they will keep for a few month. Dried shrimp that are sold loose, as they are in Chinatown, should be refrigerated as soon as you get them home.

Keeping them refrigerated in mason jars with air-tight lid helps to preserve the aroma and extend the shelf life.

Where to Buy

Most cooks prefer bigger dried shrimp, even in recipes in which they are chopped. They hold more moisture when dried and are not quite as salty. They can actually be chewy straight from the bag, while small ones are almost always brittle. In fact, some of the larger ones — three-quarters of an inch to an inch long — are chewy and mild enough to eat as a snack. The price increases with size: tiny shrimp run about 50 cents an ounce (about three tablespoons), while larger ones can cost twice as much. The difference in sizes does not effect the flavor at all.

No matter what size you buy, avoid those that are gray or brown or look washed-out. Dried shrimp are not as stable on the shelf as most other dried foods. Within a few months, they will become very hard and lose much of their flavor. Fresh packages will have bright pink, coral-colored shrimp that are whole rather than broken.